This piston is made for oil on one side and gas on the other. Not sure if you understand what is going on here, try again.

In an ideal world with no friction, the pressure on the oil side of the floating piston will equal the pressure on the air side. With friction, as the shaft compresses and oil starts flowing towards the piston, you will feel the back force of the o-ring at first resisting and then breaking friction and starting to slide. On the rebound, it will take a slightly higher air pressure to start returning the piston to push the oil back out to prevent the shock from cavitating. The point here is that while most of the oil displacement is still handled by a floating piston, the transition between stopped and sliding piston is eased by the flexible drum. As oil flows towards the piston, the drum deflects and starts 'pulling' on the rest of the piston. Once that 'pulling' force equals the force of friction keeping the piston from sliding, it will break free and the whole piston will slide, and the drum will relax a bit. If done right it should smooth out the transition from sliding to stationary floating piston.

You know, this isn't a bad idea. In theory it will deaden out the small bump stiction you get from the o-ring breaking free and starting to slide. It is kinda like a best of both worlds between a floating piston oil compensator and a rubber bladder compensator. My only request: bleed screw! Great idea Stephanie. Simple and original.

Where the hell did they get the idea for that locking mechanism? The only place I've seen a locking mechanism like that is on a caulking gun, and thats all steel, and doesnt take the weight of a person on it. Plus, you have a knurled non-circular shaft forcing its way through a round seal. That's like a certain type of unconventional intercourse without lube. You're gonna tear something and make a mess of your internals, if you know what I mean. No kidding you saw the knurling getting shaved off. A long term test would also show serious seal wear and particle ingress into the post.

Personally I always make sure to leave at least a small spacer above the stem as well. This ensures that 100% of the clamping area is uniformly distributed along the stem-steer tube interface. The method shown above, where you end up leaving 2-3mm of stem not gripping at any steer tube, is not ideal.

you can't have a post that will go up and down on its own over and over again. something needs to power it. when you sit down on the seat to lower it, you are 'charging' the spring, be it coil or air. And I am guessing nobody will want to pump up the charge on their seatpost every ride, or put in batteries.

jaydawg, you're right. its a shame. but at least I don't live in America's hat. :P

I think the lord of the rings movies gave enough of an impression of new zealanders. great riding and nature, but too many orcs like Dexta.